Visit famous Shiva temple at Tiruvannamalai and surroundings

How to reach Tiruvannamalai

Tiruvannamalai is on Katpadi-Vellore-Villupuram railway line, 68 km west of Villupuram and 83 km south of Vellore. Tirupati- Villupuram Passanger train leaving Katpadi at 6-40, reaches Tiruvannamalai at 9-30. Katpadi-Trichy Passanger leaving at 16-50 arrives at Tiruvannamalai at 19-25 via Vellore and then departs for Villupuram. The Passanger train that leaves Tiruvannamalai at 6-40 reaches Villupuram at 8-45 and then goes upto Pondicherry at 10-30. Buses take passengers from Tiruvannamalai to Jinji in 1 hour, Chennai in 5 hours and Pondicherry in 3 ½ hours. Tourists for Pondicherry are advised to go straight there by train or from Villupuram by a bus journey of 38 km. Railway station and bus stand at Tiruvannamalai is between 500 meters.

To 100 km south of Kanchi, on the northern side of Shovaroi hill and around Arunchaleswar Temple Tiruvannamalai, a holy place dedicated to Lord Shiva. At the foothills 1.5 km from rail and bus stands, Tejalingam complex of over 100 temples has come up on 25 acre of land. This is towering temple, the largest in South India, built with the patronization of the Vijayanagar kings of the 16- 17th century.

What legend says about Tiruvannamalai

Lord Shiva emerges here as Agni Linga or one of the five sources of life in the midst of Lord Brahma and Lord Vishnu who clashed for supremacy. Lord Vishnu taking the form of a boar failed to bore the earth to determine the character of the Linga. Similarly, Lord Brahma in the form of a swan failed to scale the peak of the Lingam to do the same. Both accepted the superiority of Lord Shiva at Tiruvannamalai hill. The temple said to have taken 1000 years to built and Lord Shiva is worshipped here as Arunchaleswar. Other deities like Parvati, Subrahmanya (Kartik), Ganesh, Lakshmi, Venugopal are there in the temple.

The 66 meters high 13 storey Mandapam or Gopuram is a beautiful piece of art works. Carvings are simply marvellous. One will find after entering it on the east gate at the first courtyard the beautiful 1000 pillar Mandap built by the Vijayanagar kings. To the north of the temple is a tree, a cross between Neem and Bodhi (Banyan). The holy tree is a symbol of peace, happiness and prosperity. Newly married women come and pray to the holy tree for happy married lives. In November-December on the occasion of Kartik full moon a grand Kartikai Deepam festival is organized. Lord Shiva travels around the town on a chariot alongwith Parvati, Kartik and Ganesh. People from far off places come here to take part in the 10-days festival. One has to make 14 km tour trek up the Tiruvannamalai hill to see the Shiva Lingam.

Other attractions of Tiruvannamalai
Maharshi Raman's Ashram is another attraction. He died in 1950, cremated 2 km on the South West of the town. Further west is the 1100 meter high Shovaroi hill on the right side of the road and 300 meter high Kalrayan hill on the left side.

Opposite the temple to the North West side is the holy hill with its Virupaksha cave. Further up Skandasraman cave.

Where to stay at Tiruvannamalai
Pilgrims and tourists can stay in the Ashram. There after places like
Aruna Lodge, 82 Kosambadam St, Ph: (04175) 2323291;
Udipi Brindhavan Hotel, 57-A, Car St, Ph: 2322693;
Sri Kalaimangal Lodge, opposite north entrance. 14 Vadaothavadai St, Ph: 2324215; Park Hotel, Rajaram Lodge, Devil Lodge, Murugan Lodge, Ranga Lodge, Trishul Hotel, Hotel Akash, Thoumagal Lodge, Modern Cafe tourists can try.

Places to visit surrounding Tiruvannamalai
35 km west of Tiruvannamalai, in the Reserved Forest is Sathanur Dam (built in 1957) on the Ponnyar river which emerged out of North Bangalore. The lake created out of the dam has got a swimming pool and a crocodile project has also been taken up here. The park adjacent to the lake has a good ambience.

Further south is Kuddalore. East India Company set up a commercial house here in 1684. Fort St David was also their creation. However, the French destroyed the fort in 1758. Tourists may visit by bus to sculpturally beautiful Krishna Temple 43 km west of Villupuram.
This article is originally published in Travel India and India Study Channel

Places to see in Vellore:

Vellore Fort ( Jala Durg):

Vellore is the Head Quarter of North Arcot. The historical Vellore Fort or Jala Durg is situated on the bank of the Palar river220 km above the sea level. The green granite stone built fort has witnessed many ups and downs in its long journey of time. King Chinna Bomraa Reddy of Vijayanagar founded the fort in the 16th century. The control of the fort was in the hands of the Arcot Nawab, the Adil Sahis of Bijapur and the Marathas (1676) in course of time. Though Bijapur rulers recaptured it
Dayud Khan of Delhi took over the fort in 1760. It came under the British control after the defeat of Tipu Sultan in 1799, inside which Tipu's sons and daughters were kept as prisoners.
The fort, well-protected and is encircled by thick (double) wails along the line of a deep ditch. Its name was associated with the first independence struggle of 1857. On the north wall there is a gorgeous Kalyan Mandap on a dias for marriage ceremonies. The architecture of Jalakantheswar Shiva is unique. The carvings of roofs and pillars are wonderful samples of Vijayanagar sculptural style. Its 30 meter high 7-storeyed Gopuram is simply superb. God of the temple was shifted inside the fort after the invasion by Adil Sahi and the temple complex was turned into an army garrison. In the absence of God in the temple, its doors are opened to the tourists. On the right of the fort there are three churches, a cemetery of British soldiers, killed during the Sepoy Mutiny. Presently, government offices, shops and establishments and even residential buildings have come up at Mahal, i.e, the fort. Except second Saturday, the museum of the fort can be visited.

C M C Hospital - Vellore:
Vellore is now famous for its C M C Hospital. Dr Ida Schudder, an American missionary, founded the Christian Medical College Hospital in 1900. Its high standard of modern medical treatment attracts patients with critical diseases from all over the country. Originally started as an one-room dispensary, the hospital today has sprawled over many buildings, having more than 300 physicians and surgeons, over 1000 medical students and thousands of beds. Everyday 2000 patients are attended at the outdoors of the hospital.

Other important places to see in Vellore:
One should visit the British cemetery at Vellore. There is a Church. Also, there is a memorial structure of Tipu's second son who was associated with the mutiny at Vellore while remained confined in the fort (1806). The memorial called Muthu Mandapam (Pearl Palace) is 1 km off the town. In the opposite side of the town adjacent to main Bus Stand stands the Government Museum (9-00 am to 5-00 pm). One can purchase collections of glittering pottery articles.
This article is originally published in Travel India and India Study Channel

Vellore - How to reach

Road connection of Vellore to the rest of Tamilnadu

Route No. 102 of PTC buses go in every 30 minutes from Chennai Broadway Bus Stand to Vellore in three to four hours via Kanchi. Non-stop A/c buses also go to Vellore. Every hour buses go from Vellore to Bangalore (234 km) in five and a half hour, every half an hour buses go to 56 km away Kanchi in two and a half hour. Besides, buses go from Vellore toTanjore, Mahabali, Ooty, Pondicherry, Tirupati. One can take bus at the Bus Stand east of Vellore Long Bazar to go to Trichy (104,139,280 routes) and Madurai (139 route).

Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary - India's oldes bird sanctuary in Tamilnadu

This bird sanctuary, with a 30 hectre wide lake, is the oldest in India(1858). Migratory birds come down here after the monsoon to make nests. Among them are heron, ibis, pelican, spoonbill, stork, cormorant, egret, greeve and other birds from tropical zones. Best time to visit the sanctuary is in the morning and evening and during November to February. But to get maximum number of birds December-January is the best. It is a treat to watch the birds collecting their food before retiring to their nests. No firearms are allowed in the bird sanctuary nor any body can go near the nests. One can watch the birds from the rest house on observation tower with the help of a telescope. Hence, tourists should come here with their binocular.


How to reach Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary:
On Chennai-Trichy-Kottayam NH 45,75 km south of Chennai and 1 km to the east of Mathuranthakam is situated Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary, a paradise for bird watchers. Frequent bus services and plenty of taxis make it a convenient place to visit. Kanchi is 61 Km , Viliupuram 91 Km and Trichy is 252 km from here. One can go there direct from Chennai Broadway Bus stand or via Mahabalipuram and Kanchi. From Egmore trains are going south wards to arrive at Chengalpattu (56 km) in one and half hrs. From Chengalpattu Old Bus Stand buses are available every hour to reach Vedanthangal Forest Rest House, 20 Km from there.

Where to stay at Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary
For lodging, the 3-room Vedanthangal Forest Rest House is there near the bus stand, only 1 km away from the bird sanctuary. For booking, contact The Forest-in-charge, Vedanthangal Forest Rest House or, the Wildlife Warden, Forest Department, DMS Compound, Anna Salai, Chennai-600006, Ph:(044) 24321471. Food is also served against advance booking.
Hotel Tamilnadu- Vedanthangal of TTDC is also available for staying.


This article is originally published in Travel India and India Study Channel

Places to see around Mahabalipuram and en route

Tiger Cave on the quiet sea beach along Covelong Road is only 5 Km away from Mahabalipuram. Goddess Durga is inside the cave up above the steps. Royal families in the past used to have entertainment programs here.

Mukunda Nayar Temple is on the way.

Crocodile Bank is on the Mahabali-Chennai roadway (14 km from Mahabali, 40 km from Chennai). Breeding of crocodiles takes place here. Moreover, there are nearly 5000 crocodiles of different ages and sizes with about six rare species. Ghorial crocodiles are also kept here. American Zoologist Romulas Whittaker set up this Bank with the help of World Wildlife Fund for Nature in 1976. Visiting hrs 8-30 am to 5-30 pm.

At the sea beach of Covelong, the fishermen's village is 20km away, offer scenic beauty and fit for picnics. A Catholic Church, a mosque and a fort of the past add to the tourist attractions. In the fortress Fishermen’s Cove, Covelong Beach-603112, Ph: 274301, has been set up as a star hotel by the Taj Group. There are also ordinary lodges at Covelong.

To the north adjacent to Covelong, 21 km south of Chennai is Muthukadu is also a tourist attraction. Arts and Crafts of four southern states are exhibited at Dakshina Chitra.

Boating is possible at Back Water in the man-made lake. ITDC has set up a boat house. MGM Disney World or the Children s Amusement Park (area 27 acre) is also a good place to visit.

On way to Chennai, 8 km away from the town. Tiruvanmiyur exists in shaded coconut trees and birches. There is the Tripurasundari Temple of the Goddess once worshiped by Tamil Poet Balmiki.

At East Coast Road, en route to the city, VGP Golden Beach/MGM Disney World entertainment Park offer enjoyment to the visitors. It is a famous shooting spot for commercial films.

VGP Golden Beach Resorts Ph: (044) 24926445. Conducted tours are arranged.

Illiot Beach, 11 km across the Adier river, may be one's optional site to visit. Sea beach here is quite beautiful and one can swim here. There is a bus connection from here to the city.

The fishermen's village at Ennore Beach is another tourist spot where boating can be arranged.

Pundi Reservoir or Satyarnurthi Sagar, 60 km away, is the source of water for the city. The environment is charming.

Pulicat is a lagoon wide enough to cover parts of both Tamilnadu and Andhra Pradesh. The lagoon is 61 km away and a favored spot for local and migratory birds.

An island in the midst of the lagoon named Sri Harikota is now widely known for its Rocket Launching Centre of Indian Space Research Organisation (ISRO).


This article is originally published in Travel India and India Study Channel

Where to stay and eat and buy at Mahabalipuram

Hotels at Mahabalipuram
STD code of Mamallapuram: +914114

From ordinary to middle standards hotels are towards countryside and high class hotels are at 6 km long beach of Mahabali. The flow of tourists keep Mahabali busy all over the day but after sunset the calm and quietness at Mahabali is really enjoyable. But tourist should be aware of Hotel's agents, they are very disturbing.

ITDCs Hotel Tamilnadu-Mamallapurain Beach Resort, Covelong Rd
TTDC Hotel Tamilnadu, near Shore Temple, Ph: 242287.

Silver Sands Beach Resort, Ph: 242228, in the Continental Plan schedule, the rate -varies according to seasons,

Silver Inn, from the same group of hotels at Covelong Rd, Ph: 242228,

3 km away from the city there is Golden Sun Hotel and Beach Resort, 59 Covelong Rd. Ph: 242245

Ideal Beach Resort Ph: 242240,

TTDC's 42-bedded Youth Hostel, separate arrangements for male and female boarders, they have cottage as well.

There is IGGI Resorts Ph: 242273,

Jawaharlal Nehru Rest House (Holiday Home) Ph: 242208,

G R T TempleBay, Advance Booking: Ashok Reservation Marketing Services, Kolkata Ph; 22885208.


Surya Hotel is on the bank of the Lake,

Hotel Mamalla Bhavan,
Annexe to it under the same management, Mammala Lodge, Inside the village, Mamalla Bhawan Annexe, E Raja St Ph: 242260,

Ramkruhna Lodge, 8 Ottavadai St, Ph: 242331;

Sri Murugan Guest House Ph: 242552;

Hotel Sea Breeze Ph: 243065;

Iswariya Lodge Ph: 242084;

Pallava Lodge, Uma Lodge, Kavitha Lodge, Suresh Lodge, Tina Blue View Lodge, Padmanava Lodge, Merino Lodge, Royal Lodge, Chitra Lodge,
Magesh Tourist Lodge, E Raja St, Ph: 242201;

On East Coast Rd. Buharis Blue Lagoon Hotel. Ph:24926125,

Sea View Lodge you may get double-bedded rooms from them

Besides, you may try for S W Departments’s Holiday Home, Dharamshalas, PWD IB and rooms in private residences in the village of Mahabalipuram.

Food Choices at Mamallapuram: Different kind of Restaurants & Hotels are available at Mahabali. Their menu are enriched with different kind of fishes. They serve sea-fish, prawn, lobbstertshrimp etc very delicious and tasty plates at fair rate.

Mamalla Bhawan is good enough to stay at a cheaper rate and for South Indian vegetarian dishes.

Rose Garden at Shore Temple Rd is famous for its Spicy Fried Fish plate. Village Restaurant and nearby Surra Restaurant on the way to lake have goodwill for their tasty food. On Sea Beach on Ottadavai St Seashore Restaurant, Tina Blue View, Moonrakers, Sea Queen Restaurant are also popular for their tasty sea food.

What to buy from Mahabalipuram
Collect antics from Mahabali. Souvemor items like stone carving, snail shells, tortoise shells and images of gods and goddesses are sold at the bus stand to 5-point crossing of roads at Mahabali.


This article is originally published in Travel India and India Study Channel

Mamallapuram or, Mahabalipuram - A Popular tourist destination of Tamilnadu

History of Mamallapuram
The town of 7-pagoda Mahabalipuram has been renamed Mamallapuram. Legend has it that the place derives it's name from Demon Mahabali whom Lord Vishnu killed taking the form of a dwarf. Others say that Pallava King Narasimha Barman I (630-668 AD) was a Mahamalla (big fighter), hence it is Mahamallapuram or Mamallapuram. It has got 10 cave temples. 9 monolithic chariots carved out of hill along the Bay of Bengal during the reigns of Pallava kings Narasimha Barman I & II, around 700-728 AD. These were given names after the five Pandavas of the Mahabharata. Alongwith these four Bas-relief sculptured panel on the rock walls and Shore Temple are all superb creations attracting the tourists. Mahabali, unlike plethora of temples of Gods and Goddesses in other parts of South India, has depicted the then social pattern and life style. The Dravidian temple culture has reflected its best at Mahabali. A canal brings water from the Palar river. Besides being die port town, Mahabali was also the second capital of the Pallava kings (450-900AD). The Arabs, Greeks and the Finns had made trade links with Mahabali. Long forgotten, this historic place was revived at the end of the 18th century. Originally Jain, the Pallavas had a change of religion when Mahendra Barman I (600-630AD) converted himself as a Shaiva. This fact has been reflected in the temples of Lord Shiva and Vishnu made later times.


Places to see at Mamallapuram:

The Mamallapuram Temple

Description of the Mamallapuram Temple:
The Pancha Pandava Rath (five Pandava Chariot) has been carved out of the whole rock. After cutting into pieces, the stones, i.e., three-phase style of early Dravidian temple has been followed here— Gopuram, Biman and Mandapam. The monolithic Raths have been built on Buddhist monastery mould. They are known as Draupadi Rath, Arjun Rath, Dharmaraj Rath, Bhim Rath and Sree Krishna Rath. The actual number of Raths are nine though it is known as Pancha Rath. Draupadi Rath is like the thatched cottage of Bengal with the image of Draupadi inside, some say it is Goddess Durga. Carriers of Indra (Elephant), Goddess Durga (Lion) and Lord Shiva (Ox) are positioned to the west of the Raths. A large image of a lion is set before the Draupadi Rath, on the same foundation is Arjun Rath and behind it is the statue of Indra. The incomplete image of Nandi is behind Arjun. To the extreme south, the 3-storeyed Pyramid like is Bhim Rath, 26' high. Dharmaraj Rath looks like the largest. On the panels the images are drawn of Nataraj, Ardhanariswar (Shiva & Parvati), Brahma, Harihar (Shiva & Vishnu). On the second line Nakul and Sahadeva take the Buddhist form of sculpture.

The Land of Seven Pagodas has been able to retain only one pagoda. The other six have been washed away by the sea. The Dravidian look 5 storey Shore Temple was built solely with stone. Boulder wall was erected to arrest the sea waves. This was the last piece of work done by Pallava kings. The temple itself was built by Pallava King Raja Singha (700-728). The east-facing Shiva Linga made of granite rock is the symbol of devastation. The 2.5 meter long Lord Vishnu is lying on the snake bed and behind it the Goddess of Durga Guarding the temple are the Lion King, Nandi or the row of oxen and the mythological gods and goddesses which are excellent edifices of sculpture. But many of them have suffered erosions by sand storms and salinity. The two temples were buried under layers of sand for long. These were recovered after removal of sand in 1944-45. The evening lights of the temples enchant the tourists. Recently, Shore Temple is enlisted as an structure of world heritage. One can visit the temple (6-00 am to 6 pm).

Beautifully carved 10 Mandapams or cave temples have been carved out of the rock at Mahabali. Two of them are incomplete. The oldest Krishna Mandapam having width of 8x8 meter and 6 meter in height is the largest and most beautiful among them. The decorated Krishna stall has depicted the life story of Krishna. It also exhibits the episode of Krishna's lifting of Gobardhan Hill to save the young men and women of cowherd community (Gops and Gopinis) from the wrath of the Rain God Indra. The images of Sree Krishna milking cows, Gops and Gopinis and cowboys are there in the Sree Krishna Mandapam.

In the 17th century, Vijayanagar kings added pillars to the temple complex. The rectangular Ganesh Mandapam was also carved out of a whole rock and is still worshipped today. To the South West of Ganesh Rath is Baraha Mandapam or the cave (640-674AD). In the paneled entrance, Lord Vishnu stands as the guard in the incarnation of Baraha—one leg on the snake head and other on the Gajalakshmi. Goddess Lakshmi sits on lotus in the other panel. In the third panel shows Lord Vishnu in the incarnation of a dwarf killing Bali. Goddess Durga is on the fourth panel. Slightly to the north the enormous power of Sree Krishna is demonstrated at Balancing Rock, a slice of butter as his breakfast.

Near the Buckingham Canal, one can go to the spot where three unfinished raths are found.

It is a treat for eyes to watch the waves from the blue sea breaking on shore along sea beach and the waves splashing against the walls of Shore Temple.

Other places to see at Mamallapuram:

To the north of the temple, the fishermen work with their boats. Bad smell spreads from the area. However, one can have a pleasant walk along the beach to further north or south from their area of activities.

The School of Sculpture is standing opposite to the bus stand, open to public at 9-00 am to 1-00 pm and 2-00 pm to 4-00 pm, except Tuesday. The works of art can be seen there. The Light House open from 2- 00 pm—4-00 pm. Olakaneswara or, Old Light House or the temple is little farther away.

In between stands Mahisasuramardini Mandapam which have nine caves and have beautiful pieces of sculptural works. Lord Shiva and Parvati (Durga) with son Kartik in her lap adorn the place along with Lord Vishnu lying on the snake bed. The mythological saga of Goddess Durga annihilating the Mahisasura has been amply demonstrated there.

Further south on the Kaipakkam sea beach, stands the Atomic Energy Research Centre.

Open air theatre at Tiger's cave is situated 4 km north where month-long Dance Festival commences on the 16 January" Artists and spectators come here from all parts of the country for participation in classical dances and songs.

The Tourist Office of the Tamilnadu Tourism is located at Covelong Rd. Office hrs at 10-00 am to 5-30 pm, Ph: 242232. Cars on hire are available. Banks have opened branches at Mahabali. Hotels, restaurants, shops & establishments are at the heart of this small, quiet town of Mahabali. Guides are provided free of cost from the Archaeological Department of Government of India.

On West Raja Street the past glory of Mahabalipuram is exhibited at the Museum (9-00am to 6-00 pm).

Transport to and from Mamallapuram / Mahablipuram

The small town of Mahabalipuram has indeed become a popular tourist attraction. Frequently buses ply between Mahabali and Chennai (58 km). One route of buses takes the sea coast and moves through Chengalpattu at 4-30 to 8-00 pm. From Parry's Comer, buses of route number 188/A-B-D- K go straight to the destination in two hrs. 19A, 19C, 119 bus routes make a detour and take two and a half hrs via Covelong. 108B buses from the airport takes three hrs. Share taxis also ply between Chennai and Mahabali. Buses also go to Pondicherry in two and a half hrs nine times a day.

Buses ply frequently for Chengalpattu via Pakshitirtham (16 km). The nearest railway station at Chengalpattu is 30km North East on Chennai-Chengalpattu-Kanchi puram-Arakkonam section. Trains from Chennai Beach or from Arakkonam to Chengalpattu take about one and a half hrs.

The dilapidated fortress of the kings of Vijayanagar is on the same route. KingThimbu raya of Vijayanagar founded the fortress after his defeat at the Battle of Talikota in 1565. The port passed into the hands of the Mughals, French and the British in course of time. The Palar river is to the south of Chengalpattu and mere is a huge water reservoir made in the 8th century. One can halt at night at Hotel Kanchi on NH45. Buses go to Kanchipuram (65 km), which take 2 hrs. Buses also go to Vellore, Bangalore, Tirupati and Kannyakumari from Mahabali. Taxis and auto rickshaws are available.

On the other side, one can buy ticket for an ITDC or TTDC package tour program at Chennai and in a single day visit Mahabalipuram or Kanchi, Pakshitirtham and Mahabalipuram. Time constraints in package tours force one to skip early morning and evening charms of Mahabalipuram and its full moon night. Hence, it is advisable to take the bus on 188 route, halt at Mahabali before moving to Pondichery and other places.


This article is originally published in Travel India and India Study Channel

Visit Thirukazhukundram or Pakshitirtham from Chennai or Kanchipuram

Location of Thirukkazhukundram / Pakshitirtham

Thirukazhukundram or Pakshitirtham is situated on the way of Chengelpattu-Mahabalipuram at a place of 49 km from Kanchipuram and 16 km east of Mahabalipuram. Chennai from here is 70 km on Chennai-Trichy roadway of NH 45 via Chengelpattu.

What to see in Thirukkazhukundram/ Pakshitirtham

Pakshitirtham Temple is on the peak of Bhedagiri Hill. One can go up to the temple, after ascending 537 step flight of stairs and climbing 160 meters up. Basket carrier Kandis may be availed of to go up the hill. This temple of Lord Shiva is visited by two eagles named Pusha and Prithwi everyday at 11-30am 12-00 pm to receive offerings. At some times only one of them flies down the temple. Legend says, two sages in disguise of eagles come here after taking a bath at Varanasi to take lunch at Pakshitirtham and then fly away to Rameshwaram. Some people dispute this story. There is a temple of Lord Shiva at a village at the foothills. There exists a holy pond at Pakshitirtham. Believers say a conch emerges out of the pond every 12 years.
Timmu Roy, the absconded King of Vijayanagar, built a fortress in the Jinjir style at Chengalpattu on the Chennai-Trichy Rd. This may also attract the visitors.



This article is originally published in Travel India and India Study Channel

Places to see in Kanchipuram

Kailashnath is the oldest temple in South India. With a Pyramid-style dome the temple is octogonal at the top. It was built in700 AD by Pallava King Raja Sinha, 1 km to the west of the city to fulfill the wish of the queen. The front of the temple was added by Ring Mahendra Barman III. Lord Shiva at his own Mount Kailash is surrounded here by Goddess Durga on her lion and Vishnu. Nandi, 58 other Gods and Goddesses adorn the front space. A dance competition between Hara and Parvati with Brahma and Vishnu being the Judges is depicted on the temple walls in beautiful sculptural forms. Purana episodes and war ballads of the Pallava kings have been engraved in Pali language in Bas-relief form on the granite altar of the Kailashnath Temple made of sandstone.

On the NorthWest side of the city, 1 km from the bus stand, Ekambarareswar Temple is built by the Pallava kings. Lord Shiva is worshipped here as Kshiti or the Earth. The temple was renovated later by the Chola and Vijayanagar kings. Built on a 22 acre plot of land this temple's south-facing 8 storey Raja Gopuram is 57 meter high. Raja Krishnadev Roy of Vijayanagar built it with a stonewall around the temple in 1509. One can have all round view from the top of Gopuram. After crossing five open spaces, one finds Kalyan Mandap with 968 pillars. Here seated the Kameswar Shiva, in the form of an immovable Linga who favourably responds to one's desires. To the south the holy pond there is Sarbatirtham Puskarini. The mango tree of the legend is also there—the 3500 year old Antra Nathar. The God and the temple is called Sree Ekambaranathar. The yields of four branches mango of the tree give four different tastes. Legend says four kinds of mangoes represent four Vedas. It is also said, Ekambaranathar is the symbol of the marriage place of Shiva and Kamaskhi. In every April their marriage anniversary is observed here.


When Kanchi went under Muslim control, the image of Ekambaranathji was shifted to Chennai. Later, Clive reinstalled Shiva at Kanchi. There are entry fees and even one is charged for carrying cameras.

Shakuntala Jagannath Museum of Folk Art nearby at the house of C P Ramaswami Iyar is also worth visiting.

To the North West of the bus stand Sree Kamakshi Amman Temple, built by Chola kings in the 14th century, is another temple you should visit.. The original image of the Goddess is at Tanjore. Later, a new image was built. Trio is the source of power (Madurai, Kanchi and Varanasi). Sree Kamakshi Amman is one of them. There is an aircraft and gopuram made of gold. Ammai or the Mandap is also full of sculptures. Bas relief pictures on the panels are simply extraordinary. An art gallery at Sree Kamakshi Amman is also there. In February-March on the 9th Lunar Day, car festival is observed.

Tamil New Year is another great festival of Kanchi. The place where Sankaracharya was cremated is located here.

The very old Sree Baikuntha Perumal Temple adjacent to Sree Kamakshi Temple is next to Kailashnath is another important spot. It is situated on the South Western side, 1 km from the railway station. Pallava King Nandi Barman II built it in the 8th century. Lord Vishnu is worshipped in the core of the temple which is delinked from the Mandapam. The Dravidian arts, sculptures, frescos inside the temple have an overwhelming effect on the visitors. The mural paintings tell the stories of Pallava Kings, their coronations, battles between the Ganga dynasty and the Chalukyas and the like. The 100-pillar Hall built by the Vijayanagar kings is also a noble feature.

Three km South-East of Kanchipuram, the Pallava kings built Sree Varadraja Perumal or Devarajaswami Temple. Here the deity is Perumal or Vishnu, shaped in the form of an elephant built on granite stone. This is the stone image of Hastagiri. Believers say another God is found there in the form of 30 ft image down deep in the pond. The God reveals himself out of water at intervals of 48 years. Next appearance is due in the year 2027. A pair of golden & silver lizards is stationed at the exit point from the core of the temple. The unholy spirit is removed by touching the lizards. At the western gate, kings of Vijayanagar, who were worshippers of power and strength, built the hundred-pillar hall (actually 96 pillars) in the 16th century. Though Hyder Ali destroyed the hall and its carvings and sculptures, some remnants of the granite chains on the four corners of it still charm the visitors. One has to pay entry fee and camera is allowed inside against a charge.

Sankaramandapam is yet another visiting spot at Kanchipuram.

Sree Chandrasekharendra, 64th Acharya, died at the age of 100 years in 1994. At the cemetery, a monastery has been set up with a room for meditation.

Anna Memorial has been newly built near Varadraj in the honour of Anna or Elder Brother Dr C N Annadurai, who was a popular Chief Minister.

Besides temples, Kanchi was the Pallava capital between 6th and 8th centuries. Kanchi was very much advanced in commerce and industry even at that period. Kanjivaram silk woven with golden thread and fibers (Kanchi's mulberry or Kanchivaram) was originally made as a dress material for theDevdasis (damsels dedicated to presiding deities of temples). Today the women throughout the country keenly seek Kanjivaram sarees and other dresses. As a result, over 20,000 persons are engaged by the silk industry. Interested persons can visit the silk units and can even make purchases there.

Contact—Weavers' Service Centre, 20 Station Road Ph: 222530. But Chennai is a better place for shopping Kanjivaram pieces, both for quality and price.

Apart from trade and industry Kanchi was quite advanced as a centre for learning. Kanchi is associated with erudite celebrities like Sankaracharya, Appar, Siruthonder, Bodhidharma, Kautilya. Kanchi is proud of them and their great deeds.
Only 5 km away in Enathoor village, the monastery established by Sankaracharya of Kanchi is bestowed with all the qualities of a university. The wealthy collection of old books is simply fascinating. There is a 60 ft statue of the earliest Sankara.

See also:

Kanchipuram - The Varanasi of South India
Places to see in Kanchipuram

This article is originally published in Travel India and India Study Channel

Kanchipuram – The Varanasi of Southern India

Kanchipuram is the golden city of thousand temples. Kanchipuram is also known as Kashi or Varanasi of the south. It was a walled city in the past and was called Shiva-Vishnu Kanchi. Buddhism and Jainism also found roots here before the birth of Jesus Christ but this phenomenon faded in the 4th century with the advent of the Hindu temples. Even today a Jain temple built during Chola regime is located on the southern bank of the Begavati river, 5 km on the city's outskirts. Kanchipuram is one of the Seven Mokskhapuris for devout Hindus. Others are at Ayodhya, Mathura, Varanasi, Ujjain, Hardwar and Dwaraka. Thousand temples at Kanchipuram were built in 11.6sqkm and there are 10,000 Shiva lingas. Lord Vishnu is another God of Kanchi.

Around the bus stand on the northern side of the town, 200 temples still carry the mark of the Pallava sculptures. The sky-high Gopurams are still visible from far-off places. The artisans in Pallava era also invented Kanchivaram silks.


The control of Kanchipuram was highly coveted by rival dynasties, Pallavas, Cholas as well as the Chalukyas and Rashtrakuts of Badami.

The city has a population of about 2 lakh people. The temperature varies between 36.6° and 21.1° C in the summer and 28.7° and 19.8° C in the winter.

How to travel Kanchipuram
TTDC and ITDC conducted one-day bus tours (6-30—19-00 with breakfast and lunch) cover Kanchipuram, Pakshitirtham and Mahabalipuram at charges. Constrained by limited hours, the tourists cannot take a proper view of all the places however economic and time saving the conducted tours may be. It is better to avoid trains and avail bus services to reach Kanchipuram.

After arriving there contract a rickshaw or walk throughout the day to visit one temple after another made by the Pallava-Chola-Vijayanagar kings. The temples remain closed during the mid-day (13-00 Hrs—16-00 Hrs). One should be beware of demands of tips. Enthusiastic tourists may contact Archeological Department opposite Kailash for a thorough visit.


See also:

Kanchipuram - The Varanasi of South India
Places to see in Kanchipuram




This article is originally published in Travel India and India Study Channel

Nelliyampathy - Your next retreat near Coimbatore

As we cross the bustling textile city of Coimbatore, the Walayar forest and Palakkad town, we can sense a change in the scenic charm. Red-tiled houses, swaying palmyrahs and a patchwork of lush paddy fields forming a verdant carpet loom into view as we cruise past Nemmara, a pastoral hamlet.

Glad to leave the scorching heat behind, relief washes over me as our car clambers up the wild and almost desolate slopes of the Nelliyampathy Mountains. We find ourselves relaxing, enjoying the brilliant scenery, the sudden dip in mercury levels, and the wildlife that suddenly throbs around us. As Nelliyampathy is located in close proximity to the wildlife sanctuaries of Parambikulam, Anamalai and Peechi-Vazhani, we are hopeful about sighting some stray wild animal on the Ghat Road. Though we can sense its presence, disappointingly, not even a single animal puts in an appearance! After an hour's drive from Palakkad via Nemmara, we halt briefly at the earthen Pothundi Dam and Reservoir. This is such a beautiful place to visit. The dam is built sturdily across the lesser-known Meenachadypuzha and Padipuzha rivers, the tributaries of the Ayalar.

This article is originally published in Travel India and India Study Channel


We discover to our amazement that the dam has been constructed with a mixture of jaggery and quick lime instead of cement! We tarried awhile to soak in the breathtaking beauty of the still-water landscape. The reflection of the necklace of hills in the still waters of the reservoir, crowned by a thin layer of mist, is stunning.
From Pothundi we begin the uphill climb along the winding road leading to the enchanting hill station of Nelliyampathy, perched at a height of 4,600 ft. above sea level. While negotiating the gruelling 23 twists and turns on the meandering Western Ghat road, every inch of which was covered in luxuriant foliage, we feel a strange sense of deep exhilaration.

As the Ghat road winds its way to the top, we stop at viewpoints from where stretches of Palakkad district are visible. we have a fantastic view of the Palakkad Gap, a geographical phenomenon in the Western Ghats formation in this region, bringing into view parts of the adjoining Tamil Nadu. We even come across some pockets of nellika (gooseberry) that is said to have given Nelliyampathy its name.

Another version attributes the name to the Kadar tribes who had established a hamlet or pothi near Nellikolam. Hence Nelliampothi in due course of time became Nelliyampathy! Midway through our ascent, we catch another glimpse of the Pothundi Reservoir, shimmering like a sapphire set amidst emerald green forests. we enjoy every minute of the drive through dense evergreen forests and stop at every turn to capture shots of the awesome landscape.

We admire the slender, sparkling waterfalls tumbling over the hillsides. Mother Nature seems to have put on her best face here! The landscape is filled with the breathtaking beauty of rolling hills and enchanting plantations of tea, coffee, cardamom
and pepper, interspersed by rows of great silver oaks. Right from the early '40s, Nelliyampathy has been renowned for its luscious oranges grown at the Agricultural Research Station.

Box-loads of these were carted to feed the British troops during World War II and also sent to the Queen of England. Currently, the fame of this enchanting hill station rests on the fragrance of its coffee, cardamom and tea, and even the Malayalee's much-loved drink, chaiya.
On reaching the destination, we drop anchor at Tropical Hill Resorts for a blissful, quiet weekend. Ensconced on this lush green coffee estate, once owned by a British coffee planter, we learn that today it is run by a Dubai-based entrepreneur. With its sprinkling of cottages and well manicured gardens, the resort still evokes strong memories of the Raj.

This article is originally published in Travel India and India Study Channel

We relished a delectable fare of authentic Kerala curries, spicy North Indian dishes, Arabic specialities like shwarmas and Chinese delicacies. But it is the fish curry meals, the Chinese dishes and Kerala parota with chicken curry that are a big hit with the guests. Feeling famished, we wolf down a sumptuous breakfast of aappams and stew, and wash it down with a cup of frothy, filter coffee. As we amble into the aromatic cardamom groves and lush plantations flaunting acres of coffee plants entwined with pepper vines, the fragrance of coffee lingers in the air.

The manager explains the art of planting, sifting, sorting, curing and the nuances of the different varieties of coffee such as Robusta and Arabica. we also see the old cardamom curing centre where cardamom used to be dried, separated, graded and packed. At dusk, this sylvan retreat comes alive with the excited twitters of thousands of birds. But the most memorable is the mellifluous song ofthe Malabar Whistling Thrush pervading the air.

While relishing freshly brewed tea with biscuits, we can hear the chirping of crickets in the distance. As darkness sets in, we embark on a jeep safari to the little woods in the estate. With the aid of a powerful search light, we sight wild boars and spotted deer fleeing at our approach and a herd of gaurs vanishing into the bushes, obviously annoyed at our intrusion into their terrain. But my date with the bold and the beautiful were cut short abruptly by fierce lightening and deafening thunder, followed by torrential rain! The next morning, we are looking forward to the prospect of boating in the resort's lake (the only one in Nelliyampathy), laden with lotus flowers in full bloom.

Set against the background of tea plantations on the emerald slopes, it presents a picture postcard view. "The best way to explore the sights, sounds and smells of this locale is to take a drive out to the vantage points," announces our guide. So we head to Sitarkundu where we have a dizzying view of the plains as far as Palakkad. Besides the sparkling waterfalls, a solitary gnarled tree that stands sentinel here is the major attraction. Our guide says that Sita Devi, Lord Rama's consort, rested here on her way back from Sri Lanka! Next on my agenda was a trip to the desolate Victoria Church, a relic of the Raj.

We also found the Fruit Preservation Unit interesting. Here, guavas and passion fruits are converted into delicious jams, preserves and squash. In the nursery opposite the farm, lilies, orchids and aromatic plants are grown. An excursion to an old tea factory proved to be very enlightening as we learnt about the intricacies of production, from picking '2 leaves and a bud' to the drying, selection, packaging and more importantly, the tasting! The highlight of our visit is the drive past vast tea plantations where we watch women fling tea leaves into the bags slung over their backs and tea pickers accounting for their day's pickings at the weighing stations.

As the magic of Nelliampathy overwhelms me, we set out with a guide in search of adventure, to explore some lesser trodden routes. Luck is on our side as we see endangered animals like the Nilgiri Tahrs frolicking on the hill slopes, the lion tailed macaques swinging from one branch to another and even the Great Indian hornbill.

The drive to Mampara, (a hillock 5,250ft above sea level), takes us past sprawling tea plantations and dense forests. We follow a treacherous, narrow track in a semi-open four wheeler for two hours! Sometimes the hillside views are shrouded by a silvery blanket of mist. Braving the biting cold and ferocity of the wind, we wait patiently for two hours for the mist to clear, because we am determined to capture this wild beauty on camera!

As we stand mesmerised, soaking in the awesome aerial views of Pollachi, Coimbatore and Mettupalayam, we see Nelliyampathy sprawled around me, bathed in the golden light. we salute this pristine wonderland, a natural treasure.

This article is originally published in Travel India and India Study Channel


Important Information about Nelliyampathy:

Nelliyampathy is perched at a height of 4,600 ft. above sea level in the Sahya Range above Nemmara, 60 kms south of Palakkad town.

How to reach Nelliyampathy

The nearest airport is Coimbatore (150 kms). From Coimbatore, you can reach Nelliyampathy via Palakkad, Nemmara and Pothundi.

When to go to Nelliyampathy

Nelliyampathy is pleasant throughout the year, though the days are slightly warmer during February-May.

Tourist information

The nearest tourist information office is the District Tourist Information Office West Fort Road, Palakkad (Tel: 0491-2523996).

Trekking options

With its innumerable trekking trails, Nelliyampathy is a trekker's paradise. However, you'll need to obtain prior permission from -
DFO, Nemmai Division (Tel: 04923-243179) or
Forest Ranger's Office, Kollengod 678506 (Tel: 04923-206852).

Sahya Eco Tours organises treks in and arour Palakkad district. (Tel: 94472 54887/0491-253883).

Where to stay at Nelliyampathy

Tropical Hill Resorts (Tel: 04923-246236), ITL Holidays & Resorts (Tel: 049: 246 464/65), Ciscilia Heritage (Tel: 04923-206283,94470 33560), Whistli Thrush Bungalow (Website: www.unusalplaces.info).

Shopping at Nelliyampathy

Shop for organic tea, tea leaves, jams, preserves and squash of passion fruit & guava at the Government Orange & Vegetable Farm (Tel: 04923 246225).

This article is originally published in Travel India and India Study Channel

Ooty - The Pride of Tamil Nadu at Nilgiri Hills

Ooty was built by British on a plane at Nilgiri hills. That small township is now extended to the slopes of Nilgiri hills and now the official name is Udagamandalam.
Ooty is a very popular hill station in southern part of India and loved by the tourists all over the world. Three days break in Ooty can be memorable experience of one’s life. It can very easily be your honeymoon destination.


How to reach Ooty?

The nearest important city is Coimbatore. Coimbatore is well connected to all the major cities of India and you can reach there either by a flight or train. There are direct flights to Coimbatore from Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai and Bangalore. From Coimbatore, Ooty is 110km and can be reached by bus or cab. Bus services to Ooty are also available from other parts of Tamilnadu and Kerala.




Possibly the most enjoyable way to reach Ooty is by the Nilgiri Passenger train which runs from Metupallyam to Ooty via Coonoor. It takes about 4 hours to run 46 Km magnificent terrain of Nilgiri range and pass through 26 viaducts and 13 tunnels. To avail this train you have to come to Metupallyam from Coimbatore either by train or cab. The train leaves Metupallyam at 7.45 am. Try to come little early to grab a suitable seat. Travelling in 1st Class in this train will be an excellent experience, because of its large glass window at one end of the compartment. On this 46 Km journey the train climbs 7200 ft and view changes rapidly as you gain altitude. To be more precise, Coonoor is 26 km from Metupallyam and at an altitude of 6000 ft! It is a really a steep up climb for the tiny train. Just a drizzle at times, if you are lucky will make the view more romantic. Just to add, this Nilgiri Mountain Railway is a world heriage site.

How to plan the Ooty tour?

The important places to see in Ooty are listed below. These places you can see at your leisure by hiring an auto rickshaw. You may also prefer to walk if you have time to spare.





Botanical garden of Ooty:

This wonderful garden was started as a kitchen garden of the British. From 1845 this garden started to transform into botanical garden, now is a place with immense collection of different varieties of plants, cactus and beautiful flowers on the slopes of the hill. You can spend whole day in this garden and will be charmed by its amazing exquisiteness. The road to Raj Bhaban is through this garden. At British era this was Government House and was the summer capital of Madras Residency. From here on the top of the hill you can see the villages of Toda tribes. They are now modernized. The old type of igloo hut, in which they used to live now cannot be seen except in some of their remaining temples.





Rose Garden:

Though there are variety of roses in the Botanical garden, but the Rose Garden at Viijaynagaram Palace compound is exclusive. This is possibly one of the largest rose garden of the world. Here more than 2000 species of roses are cultivated in the five steps of Nilgiri hills.






Ooty Lake:

Built in 1823 AD this lake is now a major tourist attraction of Ooty. Boat house, beautiful garden, children’s park and deer park around the lake add to its beauty. Leisurely boating in this lake is wonderful feeling, you will cherish in your memory.

The other points to see in Ooty are Government Museum, Government art College, Nilgiri district library, Gymkhana club, and St. Stephen’s Church. See these if you stay some for some time in Ooty.

There are some excellent tourist spots around Ooty, which you can visit by TTDC authorized conducted tours by bus or, hiring a car by your own.

These following tours are operational in Ooty:

Ooty City tour: You need not take this tour. Better travel by your own taking your time. In this trip the places covered are Ooty lake and Botanical garden.





Ooty Coonoor tour: This tour starts 9 am in the morning and returns at 6 pm in the evening. This will cover Ooty lake, Botanical garden, Dodabetta peak (highest point in Nilgiri),Valley view in Ooty and Sims Park, Lamb’s rock, Tea garden, Dolphin nose view points in Coonoor.

Filmy Chakkar: From 9 am to 5 pm trip you will see the places on the way to Mysore, Paikara water falls, Paikara dam, Paikara Boat house, Cine shooting points, Kamraj sagar dam, Pine forest etc. Along with these the city points like Golf links, rose garden, children’s park, deer park lake are also shown. If you plan to go to mysore from Ooty, most of these places can be covered.




Wild ways: From 9 am to 8pm this trip covers Paikara water falls, Paikara dam, Paikara Boat house, Cine shooting points and Mudumalai forest. These places you can cover on your way to Mysore, if you plan that way. Avail this trip if you are not going to Mysore from Ooty.

Coonoor – Kotagiri – Kodanad: This is possibly the best trip, which covers most of the places in Nilgiri hills. From 9 am to 8 pm, this trip will show you valley view in Ooty and then will go to Coonoor to cover Sims’s park, Lamb’s rock, Dolphin’s nose. From Connor to Kotagiri, on the way you will see the tea gardens and through the tea garden, you will reach the wonderful Kodanad view point.


Where to stay in Ooty (Ooty Hotel information):
1st April to 15th June is off season in Ooty. You can get off season during this period.

STD code of Ooty +91 423

TTDC Hotel Tamil Nadu 1: Charing Cross Road, Ooty Ph: 44371/ 372
TTDC Hotel Tamilnadu 2: Botanical garden road, Ooty Ph: 43665
KSTDC Hotel Mayur Sudarshan: Fern Hill, Ooty Ph: 43828

There are many private hotels in Ooty and hotels for all budgets are available. Their rate varies with the number of tourists.
Hotel Charing Cross Ph: 44387
Hotel Dasprakash Ph: 42434
Hotel Nilgiri woodlands Ph: 42551
Lake view cottage Ph: 43904
Nahar Hotels Ph: 43685

This article is republished at India Study Channel

Photo attribution:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/araswami/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/binux/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/saroz/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ganuullu/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/clara/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/idivilayil/