Places to see in Kanchipuram

Kailashnath is the oldest temple in South India. With a Pyramid-style dome the temple is octogonal at the top. It was built in700 AD by Pallava King Raja Sinha, 1 km to the west of the city to fulfill the wish of the queen. The front of the temple was added by Ring Mahendra Barman III. Lord Shiva at his own Mount Kailash is surrounded here by Goddess Durga on her lion and Vishnu. Nandi, 58 other Gods and Goddesses adorn the front space. A dance competition between Hara and Parvati with Brahma and Vishnu being the Judges is depicted on the temple walls in beautiful sculptural forms. Purana episodes and war ballads of the Pallava kings have been engraved in Pali language in Bas-relief form on the granite altar of the Kailashnath Temple made of sandstone.

On the NorthWest side of the city, 1 km from the bus stand, Ekambarareswar Temple is built by the Pallava kings. Lord Shiva is worshipped here as Kshiti or the Earth. The temple was renovated later by the Chola and Vijayanagar kings. Built on a 22 acre plot of land this temple's south-facing 8 storey Raja Gopuram is 57 meter high. Raja Krishnadev Roy of Vijayanagar built it with a stonewall around the temple in 1509. One can have all round view from the top of Gopuram. After crossing five open spaces, one finds Kalyan Mandap with 968 pillars. Here seated the Kameswar Shiva, in the form of an immovable Linga who favourably responds to one's desires. To the south the holy pond there is Sarbatirtham Puskarini. The mango tree of the legend is also there—the 3500 year old Antra Nathar. The God and the temple is called Sree Ekambaranathar. The yields of four branches mango of the tree give four different tastes. Legend says four kinds of mangoes represent four Vedas. It is also said, Ekambaranathar is the symbol of the marriage place of Shiva and Kamaskhi. In every April their marriage anniversary is observed here.


When Kanchi went under Muslim control, the image of Ekambaranathji was shifted to Chennai. Later, Clive reinstalled Shiva at Kanchi. There are entry fees and even one is charged for carrying cameras.

Shakuntala Jagannath Museum of Folk Art nearby at the house of C P Ramaswami Iyar is also worth visiting.

To the North West of the bus stand Sree Kamakshi Amman Temple, built by Chola kings in the 14th century, is another temple you should visit.. The original image of the Goddess is at Tanjore. Later, a new image was built. Trio is the source of power (Madurai, Kanchi and Varanasi). Sree Kamakshi Amman is one of them. There is an aircraft and gopuram made of gold. Ammai or the Mandap is also full of sculptures. Bas relief pictures on the panels are simply extraordinary. An art gallery at Sree Kamakshi Amman is also there. In February-March on the 9th Lunar Day, car festival is observed.

Tamil New Year is another great festival of Kanchi. The place where Sankaracharya was cremated is located here.

The very old Sree Baikuntha Perumal Temple adjacent to Sree Kamakshi Temple is next to Kailashnath is another important spot. It is situated on the South Western side, 1 km from the railway station. Pallava King Nandi Barman II built it in the 8th century. Lord Vishnu is worshipped in the core of the temple which is delinked from the Mandapam. The Dravidian arts, sculptures, frescos inside the temple have an overwhelming effect on the visitors. The mural paintings tell the stories of Pallava Kings, their coronations, battles between the Ganga dynasty and the Chalukyas and the like. The 100-pillar Hall built by the Vijayanagar kings is also a noble feature.

Three km South-East of Kanchipuram, the Pallava kings built Sree Varadraja Perumal or Devarajaswami Temple. Here the deity is Perumal or Vishnu, shaped in the form of an elephant built on granite stone. This is the stone image of Hastagiri. Believers say another God is found there in the form of 30 ft image down deep in the pond. The God reveals himself out of water at intervals of 48 years. Next appearance is due in the year 2027. A pair of golden & silver lizards is stationed at the exit point from the core of the temple. The unholy spirit is removed by touching the lizards. At the western gate, kings of Vijayanagar, who were worshippers of power and strength, built the hundred-pillar hall (actually 96 pillars) in the 16th century. Though Hyder Ali destroyed the hall and its carvings and sculptures, some remnants of the granite chains on the four corners of it still charm the visitors. One has to pay entry fee and camera is allowed inside against a charge.

Sankaramandapam is yet another visiting spot at Kanchipuram.

Sree Chandrasekharendra, 64th Acharya, died at the age of 100 years in 1994. At the cemetery, a monastery has been set up with a room for meditation.

Anna Memorial has been newly built near Varadraj in the honour of Anna or Elder Brother Dr C N Annadurai, who was a popular Chief Minister.

Besides temples, Kanchi was the Pallava capital between 6th and 8th centuries. Kanchi was very much advanced in commerce and industry even at that period. Kanjivaram silk woven with golden thread and fibers (Kanchi's mulberry or Kanchivaram) was originally made as a dress material for theDevdasis (damsels dedicated to presiding deities of temples). Today the women throughout the country keenly seek Kanjivaram sarees and other dresses. As a result, over 20,000 persons are engaged by the silk industry. Interested persons can visit the silk units and can even make purchases there.

Contact—Weavers' Service Centre, 20 Station Road Ph: 222530. But Chennai is a better place for shopping Kanjivaram pieces, both for quality and price.

Apart from trade and industry Kanchi was quite advanced as a centre for learning. Kanchi is associated with erudite celebrities like Sankaracharya, Appar, Siruthonder, Bodhidharma, Kautilya. Kanchi is proud of them and their great deeds.
Only 5 km away in Enathoor village, the monastery established by Sankaracharya of Kanchi is bestowed with all the qualities of a university. The wealthy collection of old books is simply fascinating. There is a 60 ft statue of the earliest Sankara.

See also:

Kanchipuram - The Varanasi of South India
Places to see in Kanchipuram


This article is originally published in Travel India and India Study Channel

Continue Reading...

Kanchipuram – The Varanasi of Southern India

Kanchipuram is the golden city of thousand temples. Kanchipuram is also known as Kashi or Varanasi of the south. It was a walled city in the past and was called Shiva-Vishnu Kanchi. Buddhism and Jainism also found roots here before the birth of Jesus Christ but this phenomenon faded in the 4th century with the advent of the Hindu temples. Even today a Jain temple built during Chola regime is located on the southern bank of the Begavati river, 5 km on the city's outskirts. Kanchipuram is one of the Seven Mokskhapuris for devout Hindus. Others are at Ayodhya, Mathura, Varanasi, Ujjain, Hardwar and Dwaraka. Thousand temples at Kanchipuram were built in 11.6sqkm and there are 10,000 Shiva lingas. Lord Vishnu is another God of Kanchi.

Around the bus stand on the northern side of the town, 200 temples still carry the mark of the Pallava sculptures. The sky-high Gopurams are still visible from far-off places. The artisans in Pallava era also invented Kanchivaram silks.


The control of Kanchipuram was highly coveted by rival dynasties, Pallavas, Cholas as well as the Chalukyas and Rashtrakuts of Badami.

The city has a population of about 2 lakh people. The temperature varies between 36.6° and 21.1° C in the summer and 28.7° and 19.8° C in the winter.

How to travel Kanchipuram
TTDC and ITDC conducted one-day bus tours (6-30—19-00 with breakfast and lunch) cover Kanchipuram, Pakshitirtham and Mahabalipuram at charges. Constrained by limited hours, the tourists cannot take a proper view of all the places however economic and time saving the conducted tours may be. It is better to avoid trains and avail bus services to reach Kanchipuram.

After arriving there contract a rickshaw or walk throughout the day to visit one temple after another made by the Pallava-Chola-Vijayanagar kings. The temples remain closed during the mid-day (13-00 Hrs—16-00 Hrs). One should be beware of demands of tips. Enthusiastic tourists may contact Archeological Department opposite Kailash for a thorough visit.


See also:

Kanchipuram - The Varanasi of South India
Places to see in Kanchipuram




This article is originally published in Travel India and India Study Channel

Continue Reading...

Shopping and other attractions of Varanasi

Other attractions of Varanasi and surroundings:

Kashi Hindu Vishwa vidyalaya (Benaras Hindu University or BHU): Kashi once was the cultural mooring of India. The place attracted countless of ascetics, sages and philosophers in pursuit of knowledge. Some came in search of the true disciples. Some of them were social reformers and some again, religious leaders. Glorious are the names— Buddha, Sankaracharya, Ramanuja, Kabir, Nanak, Tulsidas, Chaitanya,Trailangswami and others.

Central Hindu College of Anne Besant was in fact the birth place of the University. Today it is stretched over a sprawling area of 2000acre across (5 sq km), 11.2km from the city and 1 ½ km from the DurgaTemple. The University is the ultimate expression of a man's profound respect for the cultural heritage of India.

His name is Pandit Madanmohan Malavya (1862-1942), who founded this University.. The classical Indian ideological spirit was a perfect combination of the oriental and the occidental. It was above all sectarianism or narrowness. The University aims at rekindling this spirit among the students. 112 subjects are taught here. BHU Institute of Technology and the Departments of Agriculture and Medical Science is reputed across the world.
There is a rich collection of miniature paintings and sculptures in Bharat Kala Bhawan (Summer: from 8-00 to 12-00 and Winter: from 11-00 to 17-00) It is closed on Sunday.The New Vishwanath Temple, 30 minutes from the gate, is a replica of the destroyed temple of the past. The temple was a brain child of Pandit Malavya and constructed by the Birla Group. The walls have mythological tales inscribed on them in this replica temple. The temple is open to all. Tours are conducted from the city. Otherwise, you may take a service bus/taxi/tanga/rickshaw from Godhulia. You may even take a boat upto Asi Ghat and walk from there. The University is closed on Sunday.


Sanskrit Vishwavidyalaya: Kashi in the past was one of the most important research learning centers of Sanskrit language and Indian philosophers. The British Government founded Queen's College in a rental house, in 1791, for study of Sanskrit. The College was shifted to the present building in the later years.

Saraswati Bhawan and the Museum are two more attractions. The University has a fabulous collection of more than one and a half million Sanskrit scriptures. There is a beautiful image of Ardhanariswara in the lawn.

Varanasi is also famous for its age old tradition of Hindusthani Music and even Thumri. The musical gharana has been enriched by maestros like Ravishankar, Shantaprasad and Bismillah Khan. Various musical programs and conferences are held during winter and springtime. The dance and musical program during the bright fortnight in the month of Kartik (Oct-Nov) attracts a huge audience.

The boat race is also a major attraction during Ganga Mahotsav. Millions of lamps are lit and floated in the river water. The 5-day long Dhrupad Mela at Tulsi Ghat fetches a huge number of visitors. The kite festival is yet another big attraction.

Ramnagar : You may take a boat from Dashaswamedh Ghat or a bus/share auto from Godawlia to reach here. Conducted bus tours are also arranged for a trip to Ramnagar( 17.7 km) on the other side of Ganga.

The 17th century royal palace is a real sight with its towering gate. Get across the gatekeeper and there are 10/12 cannons on the courtyard. Tickets are issued for visiting the royal armory and museum. The big clock, manufactured by B Mulchand way back in 1872, still now gives the correct time and even a perfect reading of the solar and lunar position. The museum contains a silver palanquin of the royal family, hawdas or elephant-seats, ivory mats and antique ornaments. The descendants of the royal family still now live in a part of the palace. The visiting hours 10-00 to 12-00 and 14-00 to 17-00 hours.

The Durga Mandir, built by Raja Jait Singh, behind the palace, on the banks of Ganga is another sight. Empanelled images of various gods and worldly creatures stand in a row. The 4-armed Durga the family deity, is worshipped in the temple. The month-long Ramlila festival is annually held here in the month of Aswin (October). The festival was introduced in 1830.

Vyaskashi is on the Kashi-Ramnagar road: The temple has three idols made of eight metals. They are of Vyasdeva, Sukdeva and Viswanath. There is also a 250 year old imaginary oil painting of Vyasdeva. However, anyone dying in Vyaskashi is believed to be born as an ass in the next life.

Shopping at Varanasi
The Silk brocade or, Benarasi saree with zari works is another tradition of Varanasi. Benarasi is one of the most indispensable items in a Bengali marriage. Benarasi here is a cottage industry. Its fame is worldwide. Golghar, adjacent to GPO is the weavers' market and is a reliable place for shopping. You may also see die making process in the weavers' workshops. Quality Benarasi sarees are available also at Mubaraqganj and Madanpura. There are many shops at Godawlia. UPICA at Nadesar and UP Handloom at Lahurabir, Nedesar and Nichibagh. Though costlier but are highly recommendable for their good quality items. Avoid the touts and even the hoteliers while shopping. Shops are closed on Sunday.

Other articles on Varanasi
Varanasi – A must visit place in India
Transport, Tours and Travel agents of Varanasi
Hotels and other accommodation at Varanasi
Choice of Food in Varanasi
Places to visit at Varanasi - Temples
Places to visit at Varanasi - Ghats
Shopping and other attractions of Varanasi




This article is originally published in Travel India and India Study Channel

Continue Reading...

Places to visit at Varanasi – Ghats of Varanasi

Ganga: Varanasi, the oldest city, spreads along the western banks of Ganga. The main township stretches from Raja Ghat near the bridge upto Asi Ghat. It is an old city with a maze of lanes and by-lanes, so narrow at times that even a carriage cannot go in. There are places where the sunlight never reaches! Kashi has 365 ghats in total and all of them built by the kings of the olden days. The chain starts from Harishchandra Ghat or the great crematorium at south and ends at north, at Manikarnika. A clumsy cluster of ramshackle houses run along the banks, at times leaning loosely over the water.

Yet with all this Ganga is great. The river, to the devotees, is the ultimate symbol of purity, a way to salvation. Its water, a panacea, absolves one of worldly sins. A three nights' stay by the river is believed to be a ticket to heaven. Drinking one palmful of its water is synonymous with an Aswamedh Yajna. Any charitable offering here is an act of piety. This is the holiest of the rivers. But this is the most polluted stretch of water in the country. Naturally the Ganga Action Plan, formed in 1986, has a monumental task ahead.


The Ghats are of immense attraction to the tourists and travelers. Stretched over an area of 5 km, the Ghat is always bustling in activities. There are the pundits ensconced under the parasols, performing many rituals necessary in a traditional Hindu's life. There are the hatha-yogis attracting people with their mysterious acrobatics. The Ghats are a place for everything like wrestling, yoga, pranayam and kathakata (story telling) which bears tradition of oral chroniclers now turned into the professional practice of narrating scriptures and mythological tales. Among all this are the countless bathers, men and women, from eight to eighty taking a holy dip. The Ghat comes to life right from the break of dawn. Devotees gather to pay homage to the first rays of the sun after their bath. The evening arati at 7-00 pm fetches a huge number of viewers from across the city. The Gangarati is followed by the evening arati's in all the temples.

Dashaswamedh, the greatest of the ghats, is centrally located is 4 km from the Railway station. For believers, a bath here gives the result of a Dashaswamedh yajna. According to mythology, Brahma, the creator of the universe, appointed Divyodas or Ripunjay, the King of Kashi. As advised by Brahma, Divyodas performed Dashaswamedh yajna, an offering of ten horses to appease Brahma on the banks of Rudra Sarovar. That is how the name originated: dash (ten) + aswa (horse) + medh (killing for yajna). All the other gods were driven out to further appease Brahma, the supreme. When even Shiva was about to leave, Brahma, thoroughly pleased, installed the Brahmeswara Linga. That is how the place was created.

You walk past the long row of beggars and reach the Sitala temple at your right.

The chain starts— ghats one after another—Ahalyabai Ghat built by Ahalyabai, the Queen of Indore, Munshi Ghat with Darbhanga Palace nearby, Darbhanga Ghat, Ranamahal Ghat, built by the King and the Queen of Udaipur, Dhobi Ghat, Chaushat Ghat with the temple of 64 yoginis (female attendants of goddess Durga), Digpatiya Ghat, Pandey Ghat, Raj Ghat-built by Bajaji Peshwa Rao of Pune, Narad Ghat-hearsay is, a couple bathing here are bound to have a quarrel, Mansarovar Ghat, built by Man Singh, King of Ambar, in memory of Shiva's abodes in Kailash and Manas, Kedar Ghat, the KedarnathTemple on it has a Shiva Linga of black stone, Someswar (Chandra) Ghat whose water is considered a panacea, Chowki Ghat with an idol of Naga beneath the peepal tree (Buddha is said to have attained Nirvana here), Lali Ghat, Harishchandra Ghat of mythological importance, associated with the tales of Harishchandra-Saibya-Rohitaswa is now the great crematorium. Further ahead are Hanuman Ghat, Kali Ghat or Shibala, a private ghat of the King of Varanasi, Bengali Mata Anandamoyee Ghat beyond the fort of Chait Singh, Tulsi Ghat also known as Lolarka Ghat in the past in memory of Tulsidas. Parents with a wish for child assemble at Lolarka fair during August/ September at Lolarka Kund. The Jains have built the Becharaj Ghat with three Jain temples. Nearby is Janki Ghat, another crematorium with electric pyre. Asi Ghat is at the confluence of Ganga and Asi. Ramnagar is on the eastern banks of Asi Ghat, which is also the end of the southern stretch of ghats.

North of Dashaswamedh are Rajendraprasad Ghat and Manmadir Ghat built in 1600 by Man Singh, the King of Ambar. Later, in 1710, Manmadir, an observatory was built in the old palace by Jai Singh, the King of Jaipur. Adjacent is the house of Lalua, the King of the doms, a Hindu lower caste, whose duty is to burn the dead and look after the crematorium. Though these people of lower rung are untouchable in considered caste-ridden Hindu Society, the house looks good.

Meera Ghat, built by Meera Bai has the Visalakshi Temple and also a holy well. Close to it is the Pashupatinath Temple with sculptures in the parental devotional form. The pinnacle is made of pure gold.

There are also Jalsen Ghat, Lalita Ghat and Manikarnika Ghat. The last of them is the second most important ghat after Dashaswamedh. The ear rings of Parvati are believed to have fallen here. It is believed that the kund or, the crater was dug out by Shiva in search for the rings. The water was formed out of his sweats. There is also a second opinion: the kund was dug out by Vishnu for some death-rituals. Between the Ghat and the well is Chandrapaduka, the foot print of Vishnu on a block of stone. There is also a GaneshaTemple. Manikarnika is also a busy crematorium.

Dattatreya Ghat is another holy place. The temple has an old footprint of its chief worshipper. Scindia Ghat was built in 1830. Part of it was damaged in later years and renovated. Above it is Sidha Kshetra, an abode of many gods who fulfill the wish of the devotees. Ram Ghat was built by the King of Jaipur and Rana Ghat, by the King of Udaipur. Panchaganga Ghat, another holy place was once a confluence of the five holy rivers: Ganga, Yamuna, Saraswati, Trina and Durga. The Vishnu temple here built in the 17th century by Benimadhav Rao Scindia was destroyed by Aurangzeb. Later he built Alamgir Mosque in Hindu and Mughal architecture on the ruins of the temple. The aajan minar offers an overview of Varanasi.

So many ghats are there and each of them unique by itself. Gai Ghat with a stone idol of Garuda, Trilochan Ghat, Raj Ghat and others. The three-eyed Shiva Linga is above Trilochan Ghat. Vishnu is believed to have appeared at Adi Keshava Ghat.

But the holiest of all the ghats are Dashaswamedh, Manikarnika, Panchaganga, Kedar and Asi. Their water absolves one of sins. Devotees come here for offering pinda (food to the souls of ancestors).

Visit Godawlia during sunset and offer a lamp to Ganga. River cruise on Ganga is a special attraction. Particularly an early morning or evening cruise is a pleasant experience. A boat can be hired for leisure cruise. Move along the ghats and visit Kashi. Photography is prohibited. Taking pictures of a cremation is a strict no-no.

Other articles on Varanasi
Varanasi – A must visit place in India
Transport, Tours and Travel agents of Varanasi
Hotels and other accommodation at Varanasi
Choice of Food in Varanasi
Places to visit at Varanasi - Temples
Places to visit at Varanasi - Ghats
Shopping and other attractions of Varanasi




This article is originally published in Travel India and India Study Channel

Continue Reading...